: M.F.K. Fisher
: The Gastronomical Me
: Daunt Books
: 9781911547006
: 1
: CHF 8.50
:
: Biographien, Autobiographien
: English
: 336
: Wasserzeichen
: PC/MAC/eReader/Tablet
: ePUB
'Her writing makes your mouth water.' -- Financial Times 'Unique among the classics of gastronomic writing . . . a book about adult loss, survival, and love.' -- New York Review of Books A classic of food writing that redefined the genre, The Gastronomical Me is a memoir of travel, love and loss, but above all hunger. In 1929 M.F.K. Fisher left America for France, where she tasted real French cooking for the first time. It inspired a prolific career as a food and travel writer. In The Gastronomical Me Fisher traces the development of her appetite, from her childhood in America to her arrival in Europe, where she embarked on a whole new way of eating, drinking, and living. She recounts unforgettable meals shared with an assortment of eccentric characters, set against a backdrop of mounting pre-war tensions. Here are meals as seductions, educations, diplomacies, and communions, in settings as diverse as a bedsit above a patisserie, a Swiss farm, and cruise liners across oceans. In prose convivial and confiding, Fisher illustrates the art of ordering well, the pleasures of dining alone, and how to eat so you always find nourishment, in both head and heart. 'Many authors whisper, as though to a diary, or chat, as though to a friend, but Fisher communicates with the heady directness of a lover.' -- Bee Wilson, author of The Way We Eat Now 'She is not just a great food writer. She is a great writer, full stop.' -- Rachel Cooke, Observer 'The greatest food writer who has ever lived.' -- Simon Schama 'Poet of the appetites.' -- John Updike 'I do not know of anyone in the United States who writes better prose.' -- W.H. Auden

Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher (1908-1992) was one of the greatest American writers of the twentieth century. She is the author of 27 books of food, travel and memoir, many of which have become classics. Her books include Serve it Forth, Consider the Oyster, How to Cook a Wolf, The Gastronomical Me, Map of Another Town, With Bold Knife and Fork, and a novel, The Theoretical Foot.

Sea Change


1929–1931

I


In 1929 the stock market crashed, and I got married for the first time and travelled into a foreign land across an ocean. All those things affected me, and the voyage perhaps most.

Everyone knows, from books or experience, that living out of sight of any shore does rich and powerfully strange things to humans. Captains and stewards know it, and come after a few trips to watch all passengers with a veiled wariness.

On land, the tuggings of the moons can somewhat safely be ignored by men, and left to the more pliant senses of women and seeds and an occasional warlock. But at sea even males are victims of the rise and fall, the twice-daily surge of the waters they float on, and willy-nilly the planetary rhythm stirs them and all the other voyagers.

They do things calmly that would be inconceivable with earth beneath them: they fall into bed and even into love with a poignant desperate relish and a complete disregard for the land-bound proprieties; they weep after one small beer, not knowing why; they sometimes jump overboard the night before making port. And always they eat and drink with a kind of concentration which, according to their natures, can be gluttonous, inspired, or merely beneficent.

Sometimes, if people make only one short voyage, or are unusually dull, they are not conscious of sea change, except as a feeling of puzzlement that comes over them when they are remembering something that happened, or almost happened, on board ship. Then for a few seconds, they will look like children listening to an old dream.

Often, though, and with as little volition, people will become ship addicts, and perjure themselves with trumpery excuses for their trips. I have watched many of them, men and women too, drifting in their drugged ways about the corridors of peacetime liners, their faces full of a contentment never to be found elsewhere.

(I know only one person who ever crossed the ocean without feeling it, either spiritually or physically. His name is Spittin Stringer, because he spits so much, and he went from Oklahoma to France and back again, in 1918, without ever getting off dry land. He remembers several places I remember too, and several French words, but he says firmly, ‘We must of went different ways. I don’t rightly recollect no water, never.’)

The sea change in me was slow, and it continues still. The first trip, I was a bride of some eleven nights, and I can blame on the ocean only two of the many physical changes in me: my smallest fingers and toes went numb a few hours after we sailed, and stayed so for several days after we landed, which still happens always; and I developed a place on the sole of my left foot about as big as a penny, which has to be scratched firmly about five times a week, a few minutes after I have gone to bed, whether I am on land or sea. The other changes were less obvious, and many of them I do not know, or have forgotten.

For a while, several years later, I mistrusted myself alone at sea. I found myself doing, or perhaps only considering doing, many things I did not quite approve of. I think that may be true of most women voyaging alone; I have seen them misbehave, subtly or coarsely, not wanting to, as if for a few days more than the decks beneath them had grown unstable. Then, as land approached and they felt nearer to something