: Thomas Ertl, Barbara Karl
: Thomas Ertl, Barbara Karl
: Inventories of Textiles - Textiles in Inventories Studies on Late Medieval and Early Modern Material Culture
: Vandenhoeck& Ruprecht Unipress
: 9783847003922
: 1
: CHF 49.70
:
: Geisteswissenschaften allgemein
: English
: 245
: Wasserzeichen
: PC/MAC/eReader/Tablet
: PDF
Inventories are among the oldest documents to survive from ancient times. Textiles take an important place within them and inform - among other things - about value, context of use, material, fashion, trade or techniques. This is all the more relevant, as textiles were then the most important trade goods after bullion and food. The articles of this volume focus on the time between the High Middle Ages and the Early Modern Period. They represent different approaches to this fascinating topic whose social framework includes popes, kings, merchants and farmers.

Thomas Ertl war von 2011 bis 2017 Professor für Wirtschafts- und Sozialgeschichte des Mittelalters an der Universität Wien. Seit Oktober 2018 lehrt er an der Freien Universität Berlin die Geschichte des hohen und späten Mittelalters.
Title Page4
Copyright5
Table of Contents6
Body8
Preface8
Thomas Ertl and Barbara Karl: Introduction – Inventories of Textiles / Textiles in Inventories10
Our Interest15
Questioning the Inventories16
Textiles21
Christiane Elster: Inventories and Textiles of the Papal Treasury around the Year 1300: Concepts of Papal Representation in Written and Material Media26
Introducing the Pontifical Treasury and its Documentation in the Inventories28
Aspects of Material Discourse in the Textile Entries of the Inventories33
1. The Repeated Notices of Provenance33
2. The Composite Objects, Comprised of Materials from Various Provenances48
Material Discourse and Political Claims of the Papacy50
Conclusion54
Thomas Ertl: The Bishop of Freising Visits His Estates (1316–1320): Conrad III. Sendlinger and his Inventories58
Conclusion69
Sarah-Grace Heller: Revisiting the Inventories of Artois: Fashion, Status, and Taste at the Court of Mahaut, c. 1307–131074
Mahaut and Her Household76
Novelty and Rates of Wardrobe Renewal, 1307–131078
Personal Choice and Distinction82
Making Personal Choices: The Shopping Process84
Conclusions87
Lisa Monnas: Reading English Royal Inventories: Furnishings and Clothing in the Inventory of King Henry V (r. 1413–1422)90
Furnishing Textiles98
Linens101
Clothes104
Conclusion110
Annemarie Stauffer: A Purchase List from the Court of Charles the Bold from 1473112
Introduction112
The source113
Style and cut of the clothes118
Types of fabric121
Colours and dyes124
Conclusion125
Appendix 1: Elements of dress126
Appendix 2: Textile qualities and colours126
Qualities and colours without single garments127
Richard Stapleford: Household Goods in the 1492 Inventory of the Estate of Lorenzo de' Medici128
Hedda Reindl-Kiel: The Empire of Fabrics: The Range of Fabrics in the Gift Traffic of the Ottomans144
Names and Terms of Ottoman Fabrics163
Primary Sources164
Chiara Buss: Half-tints in Italy in 1628: An Unusual Book of Samples from the Milan State Archives166
The Document166
Known Terms169
Unknown Terms169
Historical Context169
Checking Information from the Mostre172
New Colours: the Half-Tints174
Names of Half-Tints and their Meaning181
Avinato181
Beretino184
Camozzino188
Cavelino190
Colombino193
Color d'aria194
Lionato196
Zizzolino199
List of Archives201
List of Magazines201
Burkhard Pöttler: Clothing and Cloths in Styrian Probate Inventories of the Late 17th and 18th Centuries202
Introduction202
Characteristics of Styrian Probate Inventories203
Methodological Considerations205
Cloths and Materials207
Textiles in Domestic Contexts, Dress and Work Contexts210
Auctions216
Conclusion218
List of Archives and Primary Sources219
John Jordan and Gabi Schopf: Fictive Descriptions? Words, Textiles, and Inventories in Early Modern Switzerland220
Fabric and Materials226
Patterns230
Origins234
Conclusions237
Archival Primary Sources239
Printed Primary Sources239
Index of Names240
Index of Places244